Restaurants and hotel kitchens
Indoor, air-conditioned kitchens are well served by SUS304 worktops, shelving, cabinets and hoods.
Buying guide · Stainless steel grades
SUS304 vs 316 Stainless Steel: Which One for a Commercial Kitchen?
SUS304 (about 18/8 stainless) is the standard for commercial kitchens and handles almost everything indoors. 316 adds molybdenum for better resistance to chlorides, so it is worth paying for near the coast, outdoors, around brine or pickling, or with heavy chlorine cleaning. FIAMMA's standard is SUS304; ask us about 316 for specific projects.
Almost every quotation for stainless steel kitchen equipment says "stainless steel", and some say "SUS304" or "316", but the grade is the single biggest factor in how a counter, shelf or hood looks after three years of washing in humid UAE air. It is also where quotations quietly differ: two tables of the same size can be made from very different metal, and from the outside you often cannot tell.
This guide explains the difference between the grades in plain words, where 316 is worth the extra cost and where 304 is plenty, how to spot cheaper grades, what sheet thickness to ask for, and how to ask a supplier to prove what they are selling. For the wider range of what we supply, see our page on stainless steel kitchen equipment, or send us a drawing for custom fabrication.
What is the difference between 304 and 316 stainless steel?
Stainless steel is iron with at least about 10.5 percent chromium. The chromium forms a thin invisible layer on the surface that heals itself when scratched, and that layer is what stops rust. Everything else in the recipe adjusts how well it resists particular kinds of attack.
304 (called SUS304 in the Japanese JIS naming that FIAMMA uses, and AISI 304 or EN 1.4301 elsewhere) contains roughly 18 percent chromium and 8 percent nickel, which is why it is also called 18/8. Nickel keeps the metal tough and easy to form, and it gives the smooth, non-porous surface that food kitchens need. 316 has the same base plus about 2 to 3 percent molybdenum, and a little more nickel. Molybdenum is the difference that matters: it makes the protective layer far harder for chlorides, such as salt, to break down.
The table below gives rounded, typical figures. Always rely on the figures in the mill certificate for the actual sheet.
| Grade | Main alloying elements (typical) | Resists corrosion | Magnet sticks? | Typical use |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 304 / SUS304 | About 18% chromium, 8% nickel | Very well in normal kitchens, water and most food acids | Mostly no; slightly after bending or welding | Worktops, sinks, shelving, hoods, cabinets, prep and washing equipment |
| 316 / SUS316 | About 16-18% chromium, 10-14% nickel, 2-3% molybdenum | Better again against salt, chlorides and many chemicals | Mostly no | Coastal and outdoor kitchens, brine and pickling, marine, chemical areas |
| 430 | About 16-18% chromium, little or no nickel | Fair indoors; marks and rusts more easily in damp or salty kitchens | Yes, strongly | Cheaper appliance panels, some decorative or dry-area trim |
| Low-nickel (200-series) | Less nickel, more manganese | Looks like 304 at first but is more likely to stain and rust | Weakly, often more after forming | Budget products sold as "stainless steel" |
Why does the grade matter in UAE kitchens?
Stainless steel does not fail because it is hot. It fails because of chlorides and moisture sitting on its surface, and the UAE offers plenty of both.
- Humidity. In summer, the air is wet as well as hot. Condensation forms on cold surfaces and kitchens are washed daily, so equipment is rarely truly dry.
- Salt in the air. Close to the Gulf coast, salt-laden air settles on surfaces. On 304 this shows as light brown spots, often called tea staining, particularly on exteriors that are not rinsed regularly.
- Cleaning chemicals. Chlorine bleach and some sanitisers contain chlorides. Left on stainless steel, or used at high strength, they can cause pitting on any grade, including 304.
- Brine and salt. Pickling, salting, brining and some fish processing put chlorides directly on the metal.
- Outdoor use. BBQ areas, outdoor counters and rooftop kitchens add rain, dust and salt, with no air conditioning to dry the air.
Where is 316 worth paying for, and where is 304 plenty?
316 costs more because of the extra nickel and the molybdenum, and sheet in some sizes and thicknesses can be harder to source than 304. Pay for it where chlorides are a real part of the job, not just because it sounds better.
316 is worth considering for:
- Kitchens very close to the sea, or outdoors on the waterfront, where salt air reaches the equipment.
- Brine, pickling, curing or salt-heavy preparation areas.
- Outdoor and marine equipment: BBQ counters, boat galleys, rooftop kitchens.
- Areas where strong chlorine-based sanitisers are used at high strength, unless the cleaning method can be changed.
- Equipment in constant contact with salty or acidic food, such as seafood processing.
What about 430 and cheaper grades, and how do you spot them?
430 is a ferritic stainless steel with little or no nickel. It costs less, is magnetic, and is perfectly reasonable for dry, decorative panels. It is not a good choice for sinks, wash areas, or anywhere that stays wet, because it marks and rusts more easily than 304. Low-nickel "200-series" steels are the other common substitute. They can look identical to 304 when new.
The most common trick is selling a cheaper grade in a quotation that only says "stainless steel". Here are the checks, from quick to reliable:
| Check | What it tells you | Limits |
|---|---|---|
| Magnet test | A strong pull points to 430. 304 and 316 are mostly non-magnetic. | Not proof. 304 can turn slightly magnetic at bends and welds, and some low-nickel grades are only weakly magnetic. |
| Written grade in the quotation | "SUS304, 1.2 mm" is a commitment. "Stainless steel" is not. | Only as honest as the supplier. Pair it with a certificate. |
| Mill test certificate | Lists the chemical composition and heat number of the sheet. | Check that the heat number matches the material used on your job. |
| Handheld analyser (PMI) or lab test | Measures the alloy on the finished item. | Costs a little, but it is the most direct proof, especially on a large order. |
| Price far below others | Often a sign of a cheaper grade or thinner sheet. | A clue, not proof. Always ask for grade and thickness in writing. |
How thick should the stainless steel be?
Thickness matters as much as grade. Thin sheet drums, dents and warps near heat, while sheet that is thicker than needed adds weight and cost with little benefit. The values below are typical, not rules, and the right figure depends on span, load and design.
| Item | Typical thickness | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Hoods and canopies | About 1.0 to 1.2 mm | Our extraction hood is SUS304 at 1.2 mm, per its product page. |
| Work tables and counters | About 1.2 to 1.5 mm top | Fixings, stiffeners and a sound-deadened underside matter. Our infill table uses 1.2 mm SUS304. |
| Sinks and wash stations | About 1.2 to 1.5 mm | Deep drawn or fully welded bowls are the easiest to keep clean. |
| Shelving and wall cabinets | About 1.0 to 1.2 mm | Check the rating for load and the way brackets are fixed. |
| Heavy-duty areas | About 1.5 to 2.0 mm | Pot-wash tables, chopping and butchery areas, high-impact surfaces. |
Finishes, welds and passivation: the details that decide rust
Two products made from the same grade can corrode at very different rates because of how they were finished. The surface and the welds are where stainless steel is most at risk.
- Finish. A No. 4 brushed or satin finish is the usual choice for kitchens. The fine grain hides scratches and cleans easily. A smooth mill (2B) finish is plainer, and a mirror finish shows every mark. A smoother surface holds fewer contaminants.
- Welds. Good welds are continuous, ground flush and re-finished. TIG welding with proper shielding gas gives the cleanest result. Rough or porous joints trap food and moisture and are where rust starts first.
- Heat tint. The blue or brown discolouration around a weld is a sign the protective layer is damaged. It should be removed by pickling or polishing.
- Passivation. A chemical treatment after fabrication that removes free iron from the surface and lets the protective layer re-form. Ask the supplier whether welds and cut edges are pickled or passivated.
- Cross-contamination. Steel dust from grinding or tools that have been used on mild steel can embed in stainless and show as rust specks. A good workshop keeps stainless tools separate.
- Cut edges and corners. Edges should be deburred and corners rounded or coved so that dirt and water do not collect.
How to ask a supplier for proof of grade
You do not need to be a metallurgist. You need to ask for the same few things every time and notice if the answers are vague.
- Ask for the grade and thickness in writing. The quotation should say, for example, "SUS304, 1.2 mm" for each item, not "stainless steel".
- Ask for the mill test certificate. It lists the composition of the sheet and a heat number. Commonly cited references include EN 10204 type 3.1 certificates and standards such as ASTM A240, JIS G4304/G4305 or EN 10088.
- Match the paperwork to the material. Ask whether the certificate relates to the sheet used for your job, and look for the heat number or markings on the sheet or protective film.
- Ask about welding and finishing. Which weld method is used, how welds are finished, and whether welds and edges are passivated.
- Test on delivery if it matters. For a large order or an outdoor site, ask for a handheld alloy test on a few items at handover, and agree in advance what happens if the result is not as ordered.
How to look after stainless steel in a humid kitchen
Even the best grade needs a basic routine. The aim is simple: keep chlorides and food residues from sitting on the surface.
- Clean daily with warm water and a mild detergent, wiping along the grain, then rinse and dry.
- Rinse off chlorine after any bleach-based sanitiser. Do not leave bleach to sit on stainless steel, and avoid strong chloride or hydrochloric-acid cleaners.
- Never use steel wool or steel brushes. They leave particles that rust. Use soft cloths or non-metallic pads.
- Wipe exteriors near the coast more often, because salt settles in a film you cannot see.
- Remove surface rust early with a non-abrasive stainless cleaner, and find the cause, which is often contamination or a trapped damp spot.
- Keep the underside dry. Check under sinks and behind equipment where water collects and air does not move.
Quick decision table: which grade for which job?
Use this as a starting point and confirm for your specific site.
| Where it will be used | Sensible choice | Why | Look at |
|---|---|---|---|
| Indoor, air-conditioned restaurant or hotel kitchen | 304 | Excellent resistance for normal food and cleaning | Stainless steel kitchen equipment |
| Cabinets, shelving and prep tables | 304 | Standard grade, good value, easy to fabricate | Commercial kitchen cabinets |
| Hoods and extraction over cooking lines | 304 | Heat plus grease; sheet thickness matters more than grade | Kitchen hoods |
| Sinks, pot-wash and grease traps | 304 in most cases | Constant water; welds and finish matter most | Grease traps |
| Waterfront or coastal sites, exposed to salt air | 316 worth considering | Better resistance to chlorides | Ask us about 316 for specific projects |
| Brine, pickling or seafood processing | 316 worth considering | Direct chloride contact | Ask us about 316 for specific projects |
| Outdoor BBQ, marine or rooftop kitchens | 316 worth considering | Rain, salt and no air conditioning | Ask us about 316 for specific projects |
| Dry decorative panels | 430 can be acceptable | Lower cost where moisture is not an issue | Not for wet or wash areas |
Where it is used
Central and production kitchens
Heavy daily washing makes thickness, welds and finish more important than upgrading the grade.
Seafood, pickling and salt-heavy preparation
Direct chloride contact is where 316 earns its extra cost.
Coastal and waterfront outlets
Salt air reaches exteriors, so grade, finish and a regular rinse all matter.
Outdoor BBQ and rooftop kitchens
Rain, dust and salt with no air conditioning make 316 worth discussing.
Cloud kitchens and cafes
Compact fit-outs with standard cleaning routines do well with SUS304 and good welds.
Benefits
SUS304 as the standard
FIAMMA's hoods, tables, shelves, cabinets and interceptors are specified in SUS304 stainless steel.
Thickness stated in millimetres
Product pages state sheet thickness where it matters, for example 1.2 mm on the extraction hood and the infill table.
Custom sizes to your drawing
Custom-fabricated items are made to your drawing, so the grade and gauge are agreed with the size.
Straight answers on grade
If your site needs a different grade, we will say what is and is not possible rather than guessing.
Advice on finishes and care
Finish, welds and cleaning routine are part of the discussion, not an afterthought.
Related products
Equipment from the FIAMMA range that goes with this page.
Stainless Steel Kitchen Extraction Hood with Water Mist Suppression
Heavy-duty SUS304 stainless steel extraction canopy engineered for high-heat commercial cooking lines. Integrated baffle grease filters, welded drip channels, and an optional built-in water mist fire suppression manifold contain grease-laden vapor and suppress flare-ups at the source, keeping kitchens compliant with UAE Civil Defence fire-safety codes.
Custom Fabricated EquipmentView details →
Stainless Steel Infill Work Table
Custom manufactured stainless steel infill work table. Ideal for filling gaps between heavy cooking appliances or creating dedicated prep stations. Constructed from premium heavy-gauge SUS304 stainless steel with sound-deadening under-panel reinforcement, adjustable bullet feet, and a rear backsplash to keep walls clean.
Custom Fabricated EquipmentView details →
Stainless Steel Grease Trap Interceptor
Under-sink or in-line stainless steel grease trap engineered to intercept fats, oils, and grease before wastewater reaches municipal drainage. Baffled internal chambers slow flow to separate FOG from water, helping commercial kitchens meet UAE municipality drainage compliance and avoid blocked lines.
Washing Equipment and Sink UnitView details →
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between 304 and 316 stainless steel?
Both contain chromium and nickel. 316 also contains about 2 to 3 percent molybdenum, which makes it much better at resisting chlorides such as salt. 304 is the standard for commercial kitchens. 316 costs more and is mainly worth it near the sea, outdoors or around brine.
Is SUS304 the same as 304?
Yes. SUS304 is the Japanese JIS name for the same grade known as AISI 304 in the US and EN 1.4301 in Europe. All are commonly described as 18/8 stainless steel.
Which stainless steel is best for a commercial kitchen?
For most indoor commercial kitchens, SUS304 is the right balance of corrosion resistance, workability and cost. 316 is worth considering at coastal sites, outdoors, or where brine and strong chlorine cleaning are part of daily work.
Does 304 rust in Dubai?
Properly made and cleaned 304 resists rust well indoors. Near the coast, salt air can cause light brown tea staining on exteriors, and bleach left on the surface can cause pitting. Regular rinsing and wiping prevents most problems.
How can I tell if a table is 304, 316 or a cheaper grade?
A magnet gives a rough hint, since 430 sticks strongly, but it is not proof. The reliable checks are the grade written in the quotation, the mill test certificate and, if needed, a handheld alloy test. Ask for these before you order.
Is 430 stainless steel safe for food?
430 is a food-contact grade, but it resists corrosion less well than 304 and marks more easily in damp kitchens. It is better suited to dry panels than to sinks, wash areas or worktops that stay wet.
What thickness should kitchen stainless steel be?
It depends on the item. As a general guide, hoods, shelving and doors are often about 1.0 to 1.2 mm, worktops and sinks about 1.2 to 1.5 mm, and heavy-duty surfaces up to about 2.0 mm. Our extraction hood and infill table are 1.2 mm SUS304.
Do you supply 316 stainless steel equipment?
Our standard material is SUS304. If your site needs 316, ask us about it for specific projects and we will tell you what is possible for the item and size you have in mind.
What certificate should I ask for?
A mill test certificate for the sheet, which lists the chemical composition and a heat number. Also ask for the grade and thickness in the quotation, and for details of weld finishing and passivation.
How do I clean stainless steel without damaging it?
Use warm water and mild detergent, wipe along the grain, then rinse and dry. Avoid steel wool, and avoid leaving bleach or chloride-heavy cleaners on the surface. Remove any rust spots early with a non-abrasive stainless cleaner.
Related guides and solutions
Need stainless equipment made to your drawing?
Send your drawing, the site location and how it will be cleaned. We will confirm the grade and thickness and come back with a quotation.
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